Roasted Butternut and Leek Soup with Cumin and Coriander

Because the pumpkin obsession is a kind of bullshit, and butternut squash is the true poster child of winter squashes.

I find it kind of funny that everyone gets so worked up about pumpkin season, since the number of people (and I include myself) who are cooking with fresh pumpkin is pretty minuscule. So essentially, we are all rallying around canned pumpkin, which isn’t exactly a seasonal vegetable, but rather a canned one.

AND a lot of canned pumpkin is actually a mix of winter squashes, rather than just straight-up pumpkin.

Therefore, we are all running around in circles with our hands in the air, celebrating a variety of squashes that were harvested a year ago, cooked and pureed, and sitting on the shelves all canned up until Starbucks decides that it’s officially fall and releases the first pumpkin latte of the year. Oh, America.

But lest you think that I am a card-carrying winter squash Debbie Downer, I put forth the case for butternut squash. Now, there’s a seasonal fall squash for you! And most of us DO cook with fresh butternut squash, even if we sometimes buy it pre-cubed at the market. Which is absolutely ok – if you are cooking, you do not have to explain yourself or apologize for any shortcuts.

Butternut squash soup is truly one of the most beautiful and comforting soups around, no matter how you season it. You could simply puree up some roasted squash with some broth and a splash of cream, season it with salt and pepper, and be in soup heaven.

But silky, pretty butternut squash soup takes so well to all kinds of seasonings, and you can play with the flavors indefinitely. This version of butternut squash soup leans on cumin and coriander and cayenne pepper for interest and a bit of heat. It’s finished with a splash of citrus to brighten it up, and a generous pour of cream to give it lushness.

BTW, as I am writing this, I am sitting in a diner (yes, I am eating French fries), and listening to Huey Lewis’ Hip to be Square playing over the sound system and wondering how in god’s name this song ever made it onto the airwaves, much less onto the top 10 charts in 1986. It’s a terrible song, and I’m sorry that I put it into your brains, but it’s lodging itself in mine, and misery loves company, I guess.

Some little hints:

Make sure when you cook the leeks, you cook them over low until they are jammy-tender, so that they puree up smoothly with the squash. Keep the heat low, and add a splash of water as needed if they seem to be browning.

If you want to make this soup ahead of time, you can. In a perfect world, you will plan ahead so you can leave out the cream, and when you reheat the soup, just add it at the end to warm through. I like adding any dairy just before serving, so that if the soup should come to a simmer, it won’t be at risk of separating.

And that sexy looking garnish is pepitas, which are hulled pumpkin seeds, and they add a lovely crunch to contrast with the creaminess of this soothing soup.

More Butternut Squash Recipes, because as I mentioned, there is no limit to the magic of this winter squash:

• Roasted Butternut Squash Soup with Crème Fraiche

• Black Lentil and Butternut Squash with Provencal Vinaigrette

• Roasted Squash with Persillade and Whipped Feta and Ricotta

• Roasted Butternut Squash with Creamy Sauce

• Vegan Butternut Squash and Apple Soup

Roasted Butternut and Leek Soup with Cumin and Coriander Recipe

• 1 large butternut squash (about 3 pounds; peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch cubes)

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter

• 1 teaspoon ground coriander

• 1 teaspoon ground cumin

• ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper

• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper (to taste)

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 3 medium leeks, white and very light green parts, thinly sliced and cleaned

• 3 cups chicken or vegetable broth (or as needed)

• 1 cup heavy cream

• 1 tablespoon lemon or lime juice

• Pepitas (hulled pumpkin seeds) for garnish; optional

1. Preheat the oven to 400 F. Spread the squash cubes on a rimmed baking sheet (they will crowd each other; that’s ok, they don’t need to brown, just become tender).

2. In a large soup pot (which you will use later) melt the butter with the coriander and cumin, and chili powder, stirring until you can smell the spices.

3. Pour the spiced butter over the squash and toss to coat the squash with the spiced butter. Season with salt and pepper. Spread out the cubes again, and roast for 40 minutes until the squash is golden brown and very tender. Stir halfway through if you think of it.

   

4. While the squash is roasting, heat the olive oil in the pan you melted the butter in over medium-low heat and cook the leeks, partially covered, for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally until very soft but not browned. Add a splash of water as needed to keep the leeks from browning.

5. Transfer the leek mixture to a food processor or blender and add 1 cup of the broth. Puree until fairly smooth (there will be flecks of leeks). Return to the pot. Add the cooked squash to the food processor with 1 more cup of the broth and puree until smooth. (you can also use an immersion blender and do this all in the pot). Add this mixture to the leek-broth mixture, add the remaining cup of broth, and stir to combine. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Stir in the lemon or lime juice and the cream and cook, stirring frequently, for another minute until hot but not simmering. Taste and adjust the seasonings.

6. Serve hot with the pepitas on top for garnish, if using.